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ENGINE SMOKE - SYMPTOMS
     A well tuned and serviceable engine will produce a smokeless exhaust - except during sudden acceleration, high loading and prolonged periods at low or idle power.  Smoke from an engine exhaust is usually an indication that something is amiss. The colour of abnormal smoke from either a diesel or petrol engine will give an indication of where the problem lies.  There are three general colours - BLACK,  BLUE,  & WHITE.  Black smoke is generally due to an over rich mixture resulting in unburnt fuel.  Blue smoke is usually a symptom of unburnt lubricating oil entering the cylinders.  White smoke is usually the result of too lean a mixture - that is too much oxygen.  The following table gives most of the likely causes for the different colours
BLACK SMOKE
BLUE SMOKE
WHITE SMOKE
Restricted Air Intake or Exhaust Piston Ring Problems - worn, sticking or broken. Water contamination in fuel - supplier, fuel filter
Fuel Injectors - timing, atomisation, dribble Oil Problems - wrong type, too old, over or under full Air contamination - leaks in fuel supply lines
Propeller Overload - wrong blade, marine growth fouling Excessive lower engine bearing wear Water in Cylinder(s) - damaged head and/or gasket, cylinder liner.  NB Check for air bubbles in the engine cooling water, high cooling water usage, and emulsification of engine oil ( whitish appearance)
Poor Compression - worn rings, burnt / damaged piston(s), worn / burnt valves Worn valve guides and fittings - allowing engine oil to enter the top of the cylinder
Petrol Engine - additionally mal adjusted carburetor (float, needle valve, pressure regulator) Worn turbo charger seals NB White smoke can be confused with steam which is usually present with salt water cooling - especially during high loading

COMPASS POINTS Library Catalogue

The compass is divided into 32 points.  Therefore 1 Point  = 111/4 degrees.  There are 8 Points in each quarter so that there are 4 Points in 45 degrees.

Library Catalogue

HULL TYPES

KEEL SHAPES Library Catalogue
General Purpose Fin & Skeg
Long Keel - Cruising
Bilge Keel
Lifting Keel - Racing
Centre-Plate Keel - Racing and/or Shallow Water

Library Catalogue
BILGE CLEANING

     The most important reasons to keep your bilge clean are:
                            *      to prevent growth of bacteria
                           *       eliminate foul odours
                           *       prevent rust and corrosion of equipment that lies in the bilge
      Bilge cleaner can be found in most marinas. However, it can be expensive. Liquid Tide is less expensive and does as good a job. Containing no phosphorus, being biodegradable, cutting grease and dirt and having a clean smell make it a good choice. However, if using a large amount of cleanser, or if discharging the cleanser into the water, choose an alternative environmentally safe product.
     Some boats take in more water than others. It is normal for some water to be in the bilge since it can leak in at the stuffing box(es) and rudder post(s). However, if there is an unusual amount of water make sure that there are no leaks through-hull fitting or pipe. If the boat usually has some water in the bilge just add the liquid Tide to the bilge and let the rocking of the boat do the cleaning. Most grease and dirt can be removed with Tide and perhaps a little elbow grease. However, steam cleaning can be an alternative. Steam cleaning is a harsh method that can cause paint to peel, especially on a wooden boat. As they say on the stunt shows, don't try this at home. Seek out a professional and check their references.
     Limber holes are found in the ribs or partitions in the bilge which allow water to pass through them and flow to the lowest bilge points usually where the bilge pump is located. This allows the water to be pumped out either automatically or manually. Keep these holes clear of residue to prevent blocking the water flow. Most boats will have a light chain running through the limber holes which allowing it to be pulled it back and forth to dislodge any foreign matter.
     Some boats have drip pans installed under the engines to prevent oil from dripping directly into the bilge. Regardless of whether a drip pan is fitted not it is a good idea to put absorbent pads under the engines. They not only absorb the oil that could drip but provide a quick way to find leaks. Each time you do an engine check, which should be each time prior to starting, check the pad to see if any new oil spots have appeared. If so, try to track down the source immediately. Be careful to ensure any absorbent pad(s) are retained securely so that, with any pitching or rolling motion, they cannot come loose and get caught in any moving engine parts or accessories.
   
You should inspect the bilge and its surroundings with a flashlight at least once a month. Look for the following:  
    *   Lift up the float switch on your electric bilge pump to make sure it turns on the pump automatically.
    *   If you find unusual amounts of water, be sure to track down the source.
    *   Check all through-hull openings and fittings.
    *   Make sure that all fittings below the waterline have double hose clamps.
    *   Check the seacocks to make sure that you can turn them off. You could sink your boat if a hose comes loose           from a seacock and you can't stop the flow of water because the valve is corroded.
    *   Look for corrosion and rust.
    *   Check for unusual growth or mildew.
    *   Check all pipes, hoses and clamps.
    *   Check limber holes.

     Don't Pollute: Remember that it is illegal to pump oily discharge overboard. If oil is found in your bilge water turn off the bilge pump and find an alternative way of disposing of the oily water. Don't think just because there is only a little bit of oil it is OK. The test for illegal pollution is simply a "visible sheen" on the water.


GALVANIC SERIES
NOBLE (Least Corroded)
GOLD
PLATINUM
TITANIUM
SILVER
STAINLESS STEEL ( Passive) **
MONEL
COPPER / NICKEL ALLOYS
BRONZES, COPPER
BRASS
TIN
LEAD
STAINLESS STEEL (Active) **
CAST IRON
MILD STEEL
ALUMINIUM
CADMIUM
MAGNESIUM

ACTIVE (Most Corroded)
**   The two positions of Stainless Steel illustrates how oxygen depletion affects its resistance to corrosion. The normal passive state is more noble than most other metals. However when the metal is in an oxygen deprived environment (sealed off or in a crack) the less noble / active condition applies.
**

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